Im a big fan of Samyang lenses excellent construction and very sharp images. I’ve owned both the 14mm 2.8 ultra wide angle and the 12mm 2.8 fisheye which Ive used extensively on a full frame NikonD800 and then also the crop sensor Samyang 8mm 2.8 fisheye.
The 14mm 2.8 is one of the best options for astro photography and even when I also had the Nikkor 14-24mm 2.8 I tended to use the Samyang14mm more as its far lighter and smaller, image quality is negligible. The Nikkor 14-24mm lets in a bit more light for astrophotography as a 30 second photo at 2.8 on the Samyang lens I could achieve similar exposure at 25 seconds on the Nikkor 14-24mm at 2.8.
Now that Samyang have started rolling out their 14mm and 50mm prime lenses in auto focus for the Sony FE full frame. I’ve always been a manual focus shooter and as my photography tends to be more landscape I generally shoot with my focus set to infinity. But as the SonyA7R cameras have a really good auto focus it does make sense to use that.
I was recently going through my Iceland photos from my visit back in April 2013 and did a re-edit on this photo taken at Skogafoss. Been on my todo list for the longest time to get back to Iceland to explore it further, re-visit the areas I saw last time and to visit the locations I missed before. I know back in April 2013 it was nowhere as near a popular country to visit as it has become now, from what I hear its a huge photographers trap with many people packed in at all the the popular photo spots.
I recieved my 8mm fisheye lens yesterday and really is a great lens. I bought the Samyang 8mm which is rebranded in other countries as different names like Pro-Optic, Samyang, Rokinon, Bower etc. The construction is great, feels very solid with a metal touch about it rather then the cheap plastic on the lessor Nikkor lenses.
Having a fisheye really makes you go for shots that you would not take with any other lenses, I feel like I need to get in really close and low. I know fisheyes can be a love or hate affair, but you take shots you would not normally take so I just see it as a tool to get more variation.
When a few years back I started shooting film again one of the first things that surprised me when using Photoshop to tidy up my film scanned photos was that I noticed there was very little to be had through sharpening. Unlike digital photos film is as sharp as a pin to begin with if you have good lenses.
Even with my NikonD800 and the Nikkor 14-24mm f2.8 (one of the sharpest lenses) you can still gain a huge amount through sharpening. Or also take a cheaper lens like the Samyang14mm Ultra-Wide, apply some basic sharpening through Photoshop and your images can easily look just as sharp as the Nikkor 14-24mm.
If like me you put your work on social media like Facebook you will find that Facebook compresses your photos a lot. So with Facebook I will sharpen my images a little more when uploading to there and I find that works best.
So whats the best way to sharpen photos?
Theres actually a number of ways you can sharpen photos and as with pretty much everything you do within Photoshop theres always many ways to do that within Photoshop.
But the one which I tend to use the most and find produces the best results is Freaky Amazing Details. FAD, is one of the more complex ways but it’s well worth learning as does yield some great results. Check the video below to see how it’s done.
Goin’ under, rats in the cellar, Goin’ under, skin’s turnin’ yellow..
From my first tour of Belgium a mooch around The Horror Labs. A very enjoyable explore and the weather was baking. One that I was looking forward to photographing as shots I’d seen of this place looked quite interesting.